Cracking Basement
Signs of Foundation Problems–Structural vs. Non-structural Wall CracksOct 26, 2012. By Matthew Stock with Barry Schilling.In the basement waterproofing business we talk a lot about cracks. Cracks in poured concrete basement walls and are both sources of seepage that create basement water problems that require professional repair. These are generally non-structural cracks, that is, they aren’t caused by significant foundation movement and don’t jeopardize the stability of the foundation.Structural cracks, on the other hand, are telltale and, even though they may never allow water to enter the basement, they represent a significantly bigger problem so they should never be ignored.How to Tell the Difference between Structural and Non-structural Wall CracksNon-structural wall cracks are, at worst, a source of water in the basement and can be easily and permanently repaired.
Structural wall cracks in poured concrete walls indicate a serious drop or shift in the home’s foundation and require major repairs to preserve the home. It’s important to be able to tell the difference.Non-Structural Cracks – Non-structural wall cracks can occur almost anywhere in a foundation wall; they are likely to emanate from openings in the wall, like windows, doors and pipe intrusions. Exerted by the soil outside the foundation, these cracks are generally narrow, less than 1/8”, and can even be of the hairline variety. These cracks will seep water when the soil is saturated.Non-structural wall is done by the injection method. The expanding urethane injected into the crack fills it all the way to the outside soil, forming a permanent seal that prevents further seepage.Structural Cracks – in poured concrete walls tend to occur in patterns.
Crack Basement Foundation
One common pattern is for cracks to run up at an angle from the lower corners of the wall, accompanied by a vertical crack in the center. Another is for angled cracks to begin in each of the four corners of the wall and intersect a horizontal crack in the center. These cracks are generally wider, in excess of 1/8” and may or may not seep water.Structural cracks are caused either by severe pressure exerted by swollen soil or by the foundation sinking due to.
Crack In Basement Wall Leaking Water
Either case requires significant: further wall movement can be arrested by bonding carbon fiber strips to the wall and attaching steel angles at the top; a sinking foundation can be repaired with.It’s obvious that the difference between structural and non-structural foundation wall cracks is a critical one and this article isn’t intended to make anyone an expert on their identification. A professional knowledgeable in structural foundation damage will be able to identify the nature and source of wall cracks and recommend the most effective repair.has long been at the forefront of structural foundation repair, adopting state-of-the-art methods of foundation underpinning and stabilization. If you see cracks in your basement walls, don’t hesitate to with one of our experts.
Concrete consists primarily of cement, sand, gravel and water. As the water in the slurry evaporates, the remaining ingredients cure into a hard, monolithic slab. Unfortunately, the curing process causes the concrete to shrink slightly, often resulting in hairline cracks. Larger stress cracks occur when a house settles or the ground beneath it shifts. These types of cracks typically don't threaten the structural integrity of the house, but they do create an entry point for groundwater, insects and radon gas. Here, we'll show you a simple, effective way to patch cracks in poured- concrete walls.If you notice large, recurring cracks or bulging walls at your house, don't try to fix these conditions yourself.
The cracks might indicate a more serious structural problem; call in a structural engineer for an in-depth evaluation. Repairing the crackSeveral masonry patching products, such as hydraulic cement, do an adequate job of filling cracks in concrete walls. However, these products can fail after a few years if your foundation or retaining wall continues to move slightly, leaving you with little choice but to chip them out and start all over again.We repaired a foundation wall, which had an 8-ft.-long crack that leaked water into the basement during periods of heavy rainfall.
To permanently patch the crack we used an epoxy-injection system from Polygem, called the Liquid Concrete Repair Kit ($60). Each kit contains a two-part epoxy crack sealer, two 10-oz. Tubes of Liquid Concrete Repair (LCR), a viscous epoxy that comes in a caulk-type cartridge, and seven plastic injection ports that deliver the LCR deep into the crack. There's enough material in each kit to repair a 1/16-in.-wide x 8-in.-deep x 8-ft.-long crack.Before you start, check to make sure the crack is dry. If the crack is slightly damp, dry it with a blow-dryer, then wait 15 minutes. If it remains dry, proceed with the repair. However, if the dampness returns, water is still seeping into the crack and you'll have to wait for it to dry out on its own.First, scrub the crack clean of any loose concrete, paint or old filler using a wire brush (step 1).
Remove all dust and debris with a shop vacuum. (10d) finishing nails partway into the crack, spaced 12 in. Apart (step 2). You'll use them to align the injection ports with the crack.Open up the two containers of epoxy crack sealer and scoop out equal amounts of Part A and Part B; use two separate sticks to avoid contamination. Mix the two parts on a scrap board using a clean putty knife; blend until you achieve a uniform gray color (step 3). Spread some sealer onto the base of one of the plastic injection ports, being careful not to plug up its hole. Slide the port over one of the nails sticking out of the crack and press it to the wall (step 4).
Install the remaining ports in a similar manner.Next, mix up a slightly larger batch of epoxy sealer and apply it to the entire crack using a 1 1/2-in.-wide putty knife or margin trowel (step 5). Spread the sealer about1/8 in.
Thick and 1 in. On either side of the crack.
Also, cover the entire flange of each injection port with crack sealer, leaving only the extended neck portion showing. Smooth out the sealer and feather its edges with a paintbrush dipped in mineral spirits.If the other side of the wall is accessible, see if the crack goes clean through. If it does, seal it up with crack sealer, too. Allow the sealer to cure for 6 to 10 hours before injecting the epoxy. Thoroughly mix the LCR epoxy using the plunger rod that comes with the kit.
Place the LCR cartridge into a caulk gun. Starting at the lowest injection port, dispense the epoxy into the crack (step 6). Continue squeezing the trigger until epoxy begins to ooze out of the port directly above. Remove the gun and plug up the port you just filled (step 7). Now insert the cartridge tip into the port that's oozing and squeeze the trigger to dispense the epoxy.
Crack Basement Wall Repair
Repeat this procedure for the remaining ports; plug up each one before moving on to the next.Allow the LCR to cure for five days, then cut off the necks of the ports with a hacksaw (step 8). If desired, you can patch the severed ports with a little crack sealer.